Water doesn't ruin suede by itself. It marks suede when only part of it gets wet, and it can stiffen or warp suede that gets soaked or is dried with heat. Suede shoes caught in the rain, then blotted, stuffed and dried slowly away from heat, usually recover with a brush. Suede that is soaked and left on a radiator often doesn't recover fully.
Why water and suede don't get on
Suede is leather with a raised nap, and that nap soaks up water and oil and flattens when it's rubbed. Nike's suede advice is blunt about the first part: suede absorbs water, so washing it can set stains in rather than lift them out. Timberland describes suede as porous and says too much water causes staining and warping.
But the makers' own cleaning routines use water too. Dr. Martens cleans suede with a damp cloth and a damp sponge, with a warning not to get it too wet. UGG cleans its sheepskin boots by dampening the whole boot with cold water. So water isn't the enemy. Two things are: too much of it, and uneven amounts of it.
What water damage on suede looks like
| What you see | Usual cause | Fixable at home? |
|---|---|---|
| A ring or tide line | Part of a panel got wet and dried unevenly | Usually. Dampen the whole panel evenly, dry slowly, brush. |
| A darker patch | It's still damp | Wait. Damp suede always looks darker until it dries. |
| Flat, matted nap | Rubbed or brushed while wet | Usually. Brush in one direction once completely dry. |
| Stiff, hard suede | A soaking, or fast drying with heat | Partly. Brushing helps the feel; it may stay stiffer than before. |
| Warped shape | Too much water, dried unsupported | Hard to undo. Stuffing the shoe while it dries helps it keep its shape. |
| A white crust | Road salt from slush | Usually. Brush it off dry, then diluted white vinegar. |
Rain, snow and spills
Rain. Does suede get ruined in the rain? Light rain leaves scattered spots, and scattered spots are exactly the uneven wetting that leaves marks, so blot them and dry the shoes slowly. A downpour soaks the shoe through, which is more water, but it also soaks the suede more evenly, so the outcome depends mostly on how you dry it. A suede protectant, which Nike says can help prevent water stains, makes both cases easier.
Snow. Snow is water, so it behaves like rain once it melts into the suede. The real problem in winter is slush, which carries road salt. Salt dries into a white line on top of the water mark. Timberland's fix is to brush off the excess salt, rub in one part vinegar to two parts water with a soft cloth, wipe it off, dry overnight and brush.
Spills. Coffee, wine, a glass of water: dab straight away with a dry cloth. Casadei's advice for suede stains is to dab, never rub. Rubbing spreads the liquid wider and flattens the nap at the same time.
Your suede got wet: what to do now
- Press a dry cloth or towel onto the wet areas and lift it off. Repeat until the cloth comes away barely damp.
- Don't clean or brush yet. Nike's advice is to avoid cleaning suede while it's wet.
- Stuff the shoes with paper to hold their shape and pull moisture from inside. White paper towels are the safer choice, since newspaper ink can transfer.
- Let them dry naturally. Room temperature, away from radiators, heaters and direct sun. No hair dryer.
- Brush once they're fully dry, lightly and in one direction.
If a ring is left after that, the fix is to dampen the whole panel evenly, seam to seam, and dry it slowly again. Our guide to getting water marks out of suede shoes goes through it step by step.
Can you clean suede with water, or soap and water?
Water, yes, carefully. Dr. Martens' routine starts with a damp cloth and then a dry one. Keep it to damp, never wet, and cover the whole panel rather than a spot.
Soap and water is where makers draw the line. Nike doesn't recommend hand-washing suede in soap and water, and it warns that a high concentration of dish soap can cause discolouration on some materials. A cleaner made for suede, used sparingly, is the safer choice. Ours is one option: SneakerSalt Shoe Cleaning Foam goes on as a thin layer that you blot off with a dry cloth, and on suede we rate it "good, blot only". Two light passes beat one heavy one. Spread over a whole panel rather than dabbed on a spot, one light pass usually evens out rain spots as well; dabbed on the mark alone, any water-based cleaner can leave a new line.
The washing machine is a no for suede shoes. Our washing machine guide explains why, and the suede and nubuck guide covers everyday cleaning.
Can suede be dry cleaned?
It depends on the item and its label. UGG says never to dry clean its sheepskin or leather products. For a suede jacket or bag, follow the care label. For shoes, a shoe repairer or a specialist cleaner is the usual route if you don't want to do it yourself.
Faux suede, bags and black suede
Faux suede isn't leather, and the sources here don't cover it. Its care label is the authority.
Suede bags are the same material as suede shoes, so the same rules apply: blot, stuff to hold the shape, dry slowly, brush once dry, and treat marks across the whole panel.
Black suede takes water the same way, but white salt lines and dull patches show up more. If you reach for vinegar, test it on a hidden spot first, since white vinegar can change the colour of some dyes.
Protecting suede from water
Makers don't agree on sprays. Manolo Blahnik and Casadei suggest protective sprays. Wolverine tells owners of its suede boots not to use oils, sprays or conditioners, though it allows some waterproof sprays after a patch test. Whatever you use, apply it to clean, dry suede and test it first. Beyond that, the cheapest protection is the obvious one: wear something else when heavy rain is forecast.
Questions people actually ask
Does water on suede dry out?
Yes. It looks darker while damp and lightens as it dries. Let it dry slowly at room temperature and judge the colour only once it's fully dry.
How do I fix discoloured suede?
If the discolouration came from water, even out the whole panel with a damp sponge, dry it slowly and brush it. If it came from sun or bleach, cleaning won't put the colour back.
What can I use if I don't have suede cleaner?
A soft brush for dust, a suede eraser or pencil eraser for small dry marks, and, for stubborn marks, Nike's tip: the corner of a cloth lightly dampened with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol. Test first and don't drench it.
Rain is the weather's problem; grime is ours: SneakerSalt Shoe Cleaning Foam, $24, free shipping, brush and cloth in the box, and you keep the bottle if it doesn't clean your suede.
