To clean work boots, knock off the dried mud, brush the upper and the welt with a horsehair brush, wipe the leather and the outsole with a damp cloth, then let the boots dry completely without heat before you condition them. Do it often: Wolverine points out that dirt left on boots wears the stitching and the leather. Clean the inside separately, and make sure everything is dry before the next shift.
SneakerSalt is not affiliated with Wolverine or any other boot brand named here.
What you're cleaning
Most work boots are heavy leather, often oiled or waterproofed, stitched to a rubber outsole, sometimes with a Goodyear welt, and with a protective toe cap. Each part changes the job a little:
- The leather. It wants gentle cleaning and a conditioner afterwards, and heat dries it out.
- The welt and stitching. This is where dirt packs in and does its slow damage.
- The outsole. Deep tread holds mud, stones and, on a site, bits of metal.
- Electrical hazard (EH) soles. OSHA notes that EH footwear protects only in dry conditions and gives little protection when wet or damp. Drying matters more on these than on any other boot.
How to clean work boots, step by step
This is the routine Wolverine publishes for its work boots, with the safety checks university safety guides add.
- Take the laces out.
- Knock off dried mud and check the tread. Bang the soles together outside. Look for nails, screws or swarf stuck in the outsole and pull them out.
- Wipe the upper and outsole. A damp cloth, working from the top down.
- Brush. A horsehair brush over the whole upper, paying attention to the stitching and the welt.
- Dry with no heat. Wolverine: if the boots get wet, let them air dry thoroughly before wearing them again, and do not use heat. Safety footwear guidance says boots must air dry completely before being stored after getting wet.
- Condition. Test the conditioner on a small area first, because it may darken some leathers. Work it in, let it dry, then brush off the excess.
- Inspect them. Look for cuts, holes, cracks and worn soles. Safety guidance is blunt: damaged safety boots must not be worn.
Avoid products that contain silicone or alcohol; Wolverine warns against both. If you use a boot dryer, the same rule applies: Wolverine says no heat.
Where our foam fits, and where it doesn't
Honestly, on a lot of work boots it doesn't. We haven't tested SneakerSalt Shoe Cleaning Foam on oiled or oil-tanned leather, so on those the damp cloth and brush above is the method. Where it does fit:
- The rubber outsole and sole edge: rated excellent, like any rubber sole. Two pumps, ten seconds, wipe, after the tread is knocked clean.
- Smooth, finished leather boots: two pumps per panel, ten seconds, a dry wipe. Test an inside panel first on tan, brown or black; the foam has no bleach or solvents and hasn't lifted dye on anything we've tested.
- Suede and nubuck boots: rated "good, blot only". One light pump, blot, never scrub.
- The brush and cloth that come in the box suit the brushing and wiping steps on any boot.
Greasy work boots, salt and heavy dirt
Grease and oil. Don't add water first. Cover fresh grease with talc or cornstarch to absorb it, leave it for a few hours or overnight, and brush it off. On the rubber outsole, the common fix is a dish-soap solution and a stiff brush, kept well away from the leather.
Salt. Brush off the dry crust, then wipe the white lines with diluted white vinegar: one part vinegar to two of water, or equal parts. Vinegar can dry leather, so condition afterwards.
Caked mud. Let it dry and knock it off. Wet mud ground in with a brush ends up deeper in the stitching.
Suede and nubuck work boots
Dry brushing is most of the job. Wolverine raises the nap with a stiff brush used gently. It also says to keep oils and conditioners off suede, and sources disagree about waterproof sprays, so patch-test any spray first. For marks, use a suede eraser, then the light foam-and-blot method if needed. Our suede and nubuck guide covers it in full.
How to clean the inside of work boots
- Insoles. Pull them out after every wet shift. Scrub them with mild soap and water, or baking soda and water, and let them dry completely before they go back.
- The lining. A light spray of equal parts white vinegar and water, then a full air dry. Never pour water into the boot.
- Odour. Baking soda inside overnight, shaken out. Alternating two pairs gives each a full day to dry; Wolverine recommends that day's rest, plus shoe trees to take up moisture.
More on smell in the insoles and odour guide. The foam works on a removable insole once it's out of the boot; keep the pass light so the insole dries quickly.
Can you wash work boots in the washing machine?
We found no safety or bootmaker source that approves machine washing safety boots, and the American Cleaning Institute says detergent and agitation may damage many leathers and adhesives. Don't do it. The dishwasher is no better: no shoe maker recommends it, and heat damages the glue that holds shoes together. Our washing machine guide has the general case.
For Red Wing, Brunt, Carhartt, Justin, Timberland PRO and the rest, check the care card that came with the boots; we couldn't verify their care steps, so we haven't repeated them here.
Questions people actually ask
How often should I oil work boots?
There's no single number. Wolverine's own guidance is at least once or twice a month for its boots, but we found no schedule that suits every leather. Condition whenever the leather looks dry or pale.
Is it better to wash work boots in the washer or dishwasher?
Neither, for work boots. No shoe maker we found recommends the dishwasher, and the heat in both is hard on the glue and leather.
How do you clean dirty fabric work boots?
Brush off dry dirt, then clean the fabric with a mild detergent in warm water on a soft brush and wipe off the soap. Canvas is a material we rate excellent for the foam. Air dry, never with heat.
For smooth and suede work boots, SneakerSalt Shoe Cleaning Foam costs $24, ships free, includes a brush and cloth, and is refunded if it doesn't clean them.
